We are proud to announce the release of GapOnly at Greater Springfield Veterinary!

 

Imagine walking out of the vet – only paying your part of the invoice. It’s time to say, ‘goodbye’ to paying your entire bill then waiting for a reimbursement cheque!

GapOnly is a FREE service available for pets insured with participating PetSure insurance companies.

Innovating the pet insurance claims experience, GapOnly reviews and calculates your pet insurance claim whilst you’re still at the vet.

GapOnly will make a huge difference in decreasing the stress of having a very sick or injured animal, then having to find the money for the cost of the treatment before you are able to claim.

GapOnly applies to all policies – both existing and new at no extra cost to you!

  1. Have a vet visit or procedure performed at Greater Springfield Veterinary.
  2. Request to have a GapOnly payment with our reception team (only eligible insurance funds apply).
  3. Your pet’s medical notes and invoices are digitally sent to your insurance company.
  4. Wait 10-20 minutes.
  5. Only pay what the insurance company doesn’t cover on the spot – your insurer will transfer the rest directly!

GapOnly processed payments are only available between 9am – 7pm.

Every year, Santa delivers fluffy bundles of joy to excited families on Christmas Day.

New pet owners usually expect the costs of vaccinations, wellness and development checks and routine desexing procedures within the first few months. But what happens when unexpected things happen?

For example, when a pup swallows stuffing from his new toy?  When the kitten that wants to test the boundaries jumps awkwardly off a ledge? When a puppy’s leg is accidentally stepped on by one of the kids during play? These incidents are seen all too often in our practices. When a fur baby requires treatment, the last thing any pet owner wants to be worrying about is whether they can afford the vet bills. A common vaccination and check-up can cost anywhere from $80 to $120. However, if your pet family member does require veterinary treatment for more serious conditions the costs may reach into the thousands. Pet insurance is key in providing both you and your veterinarian the freedom to choose the best possible treatment plan for your pet, without compromise.

Ten years ago, many of the life-saving techniques performed by veterinarians around the globe today, were simply, not on offer. As medical advancements have been made and as the expectations of pet owners on today’s veterinarians to perform new types of treatments grows, the requirements for general standards of care have vastly improved. Whilst improvements in veterinary medicine are, without doubt, saving lives, they come at a cost, making pet insurance one of the fastest-growing sectors of the insurance market.

How Does Pet Insurance Work?
Unless you use a service such as GapOnly, claims are lodged after paying your vet bill. Our reception team will happily submit a claim on your behalf, providing the request from you has been made in writing. We ask that you send us an email containing your policy number and the date and condition(s) you wish to claim for. We will ensure all claims include itemised tax invoices(s), payment receipt(s) and applicable consultation notes. After you have paid a veterinary bill, you are able to lodge a claim. This can be frustrating for clients, as it is believed that if the pet is insured, the entire vet bill will be covered and that no payment at the vet is necessary. In most cases, a vet bill must be processed before a claim can be lodged – and this can create stress because pet owners are still lumped with paying the account at the time of treatment. Alternatively, you may submit your own claims using an online portal (if this is a service your insurer offers), or by post. If submitting a claim via post, all claim documentation must be originals and must be accompanied by a completed claim form. Incomplete claim forms will likely be returned to you and this may result in a delay in processing your claim.

How much does Pet Insurance Cost?
You can choose a pet insurance policy to suit your budget. The costs can vary depending on a number of factors including the excess limit selected, the benefit percentage applicable to the cover you have chosen, the species, breed and age of your pet.

What Is A Pre-Existing Condition?
A ‘pre-existing condition’ is one, which has begun before, or during the relevant waiting period. A pre-existing condition may not be claimable for the lifetime of your pet. The best time to get pet insurance is as early as possible (most insurers cover pets from 8 weeks of age) and before any medical problems develop. Pets who have no markers for illness or injury at the time of sign up and during the waiting period, should, technically not be excluded from making future claims. In some circumstances, pre-existing conditions can be removed from the policy. For example, your pet may have had one ear infection before insurance was arranged. But, if no further signs of this condition were treated for a significant period of time (ie 18-24 months) you may be able to submit a letter to the insurance underwriter to have this condition removed as an exemption. Please note, it is illegal for a veterinarian to ‘leave out’ relevant information regarding your pet’s health status for insurance purposes.

Who Are The ‘Insurers’?
The majority of pet insurance companies in Australia companies fall under the PetSure ‘umbrella’ group, underwritten by Hollard. It includes market brands such as RSPCA, Woolworths, ProSure, Real, HCF, Medibank, AHM, PetMed, and Pet Insurance Australia. Other key players within the pet insurance industry include:

BowWowMeow – A part of the big PetSure group, this company has just brought out a nifty ‘Gap Only’ service (which is free for anyone who has a BowWow Meow policy). This service reviews and calculates your pet insurance claim while you’re still at the vet. You simply pay the gap (the difference between the vet’s invoice and the claim benefit under your policy) and go – similar to when you visit your doctor.

Pet Plan – Pet Plan offers a unique service; whereby pet owners pay excess to the vet (usually $125 for cats and $150 for dogs), then submit a claim, meaning the veterinary practice is reimbursed directly. We are always happy to oblige with this, but it is important to note that some items on your bill may not be claimable, leaving a remaining sum outstanding for you to cover. In this case, your insurer will contact you to notify you of the ‘difference’, which is to be settled through our hospitals. Pet Plan is underwritten by Lloyd’s.

*Trupanion – Whilst some pet insurance companies put a limit on how much you can claim per condition, Trupanion insurance provides customers with no annual, per condition, or lifetime payout limits. That means you get coverage for surgeries, diagnostic tests, medications, treatments, and hospital stays and they will pay eligible claims—no matter the cost. Underwritten by Hollard, Trupanion customers can take advantage of GapOnly services (meaning a claim can be made directly at the vet).

Knose –A fairly new player in the market, Knose is underwritten by ‘Allied World’. Knose allows you to choose whether you would like to claim 70%, 80% or 90% of veterinary bills back – and the monthly premiums will vary based on which option you select. They also allow clients who are a part of our ‘Pet Club’ (our monthly vet membership which targets the cost of routine vet care) to waive consultation fees when claiming (given they are already included at $0 in our internal plan) and which makes the monthly premiums for pet owners, slightly lower.

Additional Information:
It is important to note that we are not registered insurance brokers and will never recommend one pet insurance company over another. We do not receive financial incentives from companies to recommend their services. Before you sign on the dotted line, it is paramount that you read your Product Disclosure Statement or ‘PDS’, which tells you what you are and are not covered for under a specific policy. It highlights insured events, claim limits, exclusions, discounts, benefits and information on how the claims process works.

So, which company is best for you?
This largely depends on your individual situation, your budget and the level of cover required to suit your pet’s lifestyle. In short, we can’t advise you on this, other than to say it is important to do your own research and read the PDS’s for inclusions and exclusions.

We facilitate ALL claims; using whatever company you have chosen. We will contest a claim should we believe the insurance company is being unjust in their decision to decline a claim. Unfortunately, chasing these denied claims usually falls into the lap of the policyholder, who then has to chase the consulting veterinarian to write a letter of negotiation (which can be very time consuming for an already ‘run off their feet’ practitioner).

We respect the insurance companies for their work within the industry and will continue to recommend insurance despite any inadequacies, because, we know that it makes all the difference for clients operating within a tight budget.

Our Top Tips:

*Ensure you have a full understanding of what your policy does and does not cover.

*What other benefits are included? Whilst most policies do not cover ‘routine’ care items, some assist in rebates towards vaccinations or routine dental care extras.

*Always ask about waiting periods, financial caps, and pre-existing conditions before signing up. Not all conditions and treatments are covered by pet insurance (tick paralysis is a big one here!). Please refer to the applicable PDS of the company you are interested in joining for further information.

*If your pet has had any medical problems prior to signing up (even the most minor of conditions), you may be exempt from making claims relating to these issues.

*Some policies will only cover basic illnesses, while others will extend to more serious illnesses and accidents. The policy you choose and the level of cover you receive will be reflected in your monthly premiums.

*Make sure you claim after each medical issue. Some companies will not allow you to claim if a significant amount of time has lapsed since your pet was seen last.

*Speak with the insurer to find out if a ‘pre-existing condition’ can be removed from the exclusion list if no symptoms of the illness have reoccurred within a certain timeframe.

The first experience your pup has with a groomer can shape the way he or she feels about grooming later in life and assisting your puppy with relaxed behaviours starts on day one. Training for grooming and handling should be included in a pup’s early life lessons – along with socialisation and basic obedience.

Set your puppy up for a stress-free future!

Grooming and handling should be part of your puppy training routine as the processes involved can be stressful if he has not been adequately desensitised. Training should consist of short frequent sessions with plenty of praise and treats!  As the attention span of most pups is not very long, training should be a slow and steady process. Putting in the groundwork now will definitely set your pup up for a confident and stress-free future.

Top Tips:

  • Find a quiet place away from distractions for training.
  • Do not train when you are stressed or rushed, or when your puppy is a little tired or hungry.
  • If you have a small dog, it will likely be groomed on a table. Training on a table (as long as your pup is used to being picked up first) can help to build confidence when it comes to grooming time. Start with performing basic commands on a table or bench top until your dog is comfortable.
  • Ensure there is a non-slip mat on the table at all times. Slippery footing will almost certainly cause some anxiety.

Getting used to the grooming process

  1. Start by touching your pup all over with your hands in a gentle fashion – almost like a ‘pat’ session.
  2. Use ‘high value’ treat rewards (such as roast chicken) when introducing new things.
  3. Make sure that your puppy is 100% comfortable being touched with your hands before you move on to using any tools like brushes or combs.
  4. Once your puppy is used to being touched normally, ensure that your puppy is comfortable being touched inside their ears, around their eyes, nose, legs, feet and hygiene areas. A dog who is calm and relaxed while being handled in this way will help not only with grooming – but also with visits to the vet clinic.
If your puppy is relaxed whilst performing the above 4 steps, you can move on to introducing a brush or comb. Top tips:
  • Remember to reward (frequently!) with treats. Your puppy still doesn’t understand the benefits of being groomed, so he will need some incentive!
  • You should aim to brush your puppy daily, even when the coat has no knots. If he is only brushed when there is a problem, he may associate brushing with discomfort.  We all know how uncomfortable brushing knotted hair is!
  • Often the hair in front of the eyes will need trimming in-between visits to the grooming salon. Have a professional groomer do his for you the first few times it is required for safety and proficiency. Seeing a pair of scissors pointing towards your eyes can be pretty scary if you don’t know what is happening!
  • When your puppy is having his face groomed, the groomer gently supports the chin. Get your pup used to this by having one hand holding onto the chin, the pup sitting calmly and looking at you, then rewarding with a treat. Start with a second-long hold and then build up to 1 minute over several weeks. We teach the relevant ‘chin rest’ command during our puppy classes!

Nail clipping

It is often best to have a groomer perform this the first few times it is required. Nail clipping is a strange feeling to a puppy, but most dogs require nail trims throughout their life stages so it is important to get it right! Be gentle and avoid the nail quiks (which will bleed if cut too short!). Start with trimming one nail and then rewarding.  If this is a stressful experience for your puppy at the start – go back to foot handling only, and work up to introducing the clippers again slowly.

Hair Dryers

Groomers use a hairdryer, which can be loud and scary! Never chase your pet with the hairdryer or force your pup to sit through a blowdry if he is distressed – remember – working up to these scary things takes time! If you use a hairdryer yourself, you can have your pup in the room whilst you use it on yourself – distracting him with a treat  (like a stuffed Kong toy or a pigs ear). If your puppy is comfortable being in the same room as the hairdryer, move the dryer closer towards the puppy without directing the flow of air towards him. If your pup appears nervous, go back to the step before – move the hairdryer away again until he is comfortable. Only once your puppy is comfortable with being next to the hairdryer would you direct the flow on to your puppy.  Start with a short “wave” of the dryer over their side and then reward with a treat.  Build the time your puppy is in the air from the hairdryer over time.  Then build up to including the face in the stream of air. Remember:
  • Learning is a process, it is not something that happens overnight!
  • Short regular sessions are much better than longer infrequent ones.
  • Always move slowly and reward with tasty treats.
  • If your puppy is getting stressed you are moving too quickly. Go back a couple of steps and work your way up again!
  • Training sessions should always be marked with a ‘start’ and a ‘finish’ so your pup is aware of when he can stop concentrating (we teach these important cues in our puppy classes).

Did you know that we offer FREE face and nail trims to pups under 12 weeks of age?

 This service only takes about 5 minutes and is the perfect introduction to your new baby’s first groom! 

There will come a point when your dogs’ haircut will be about 10% determined by you and about 90% determined by them. No matter how hard we try, or how sweet your dog is, the final product of a senior dog haircut may look different to the way it did as a young puppy or a middle-aged adult.

Here’s a breakdown….

Our resident grooming expert, Marguerite Fargo, has a dog named Levi (a Golden Retriever) who is a few months shy of his 12th birthday. His general ‘comfort levels’ vary from day-to-day. He used to get super fluffy cuts with long beautiful ears and a big ‘floofy’ tail. Now he’s clipped pretty short all over.

Getting older affects our furries, just as it affects people. Their joints become stiff or sore, their skin becomes tissue paper-thin, they start losing their sense of awareness, their muscles tremble, their balance is shaky and they get various skin blemishes and tumours. But how does this change their haircut?

A poodle with arthritis in their toes, for example, might not be able to spread them apart to get those pretty shaved toes anymore – so we adapt and start doing a fluffier teddy bear foot.

A schnauzer who’s developed some canine dementia might not tolerate having tangles brushed from his beard without panicking – so we will start trimming it short to keep him calm and comfortable.

A Shih-Tzu who’s always had long hair might end up with a short puppy cut – because the skin has thinned too much to handle the extra brushing required to maintain a lot of hair.

A Bichon Frise who’s always had a pretty fluffy scissor trim may struggle to stand through a ‘full groom’ when his joints start getting stiff and his legs start trembling.

We do what we can to keep your dog comfortable, and that means sometimes, a grooming style may be adapted over time.

Skin blemishes are annoying and moles, skin tags or warts, can bleed if the wind blows the wrong way! We don’t intend to irritate them, but sometimes the bath, drying or brushing over them gently can cause them to ooze a bit.

Occasionally we will have a senior pet who can’t be totally finished in one session. Maybe this guy is having a particularly bad day with his arthritis in winter – or there could be something else medically going on. And sometimes, a grooming session will take longer, because your furry friend needs a rest break.

No matter how hard we try to make it easy on your senior sweetie, grooming can be physically demanding for older dogs (who usually nap 23 1/2 hours a day!).

A groomer may need to stretch the legs of your pooch out to shave them properly, manipulate toes to trim nails or turn your dog’s head from side to side to trim it neatly. The blowdryer your dog has been accustomed to over the years may suddenly become a bit scary (especially where canine dementia is indicated), so we will plug the ears gently with cotton wool (to reduce the noise), and go slow.

If your senior pet seems sore or stiff after a routine grooming procedure he may need a prescription for arthritis medication to be given on grooming days – or perhaps, longer-term.

Our grooming decisions will always be made with your pup’s comfort in mind.

So hug your pooch, take a minute to think about what is best for him to be comfy – and cherish those sweet, little grey whiskers!

Many veterinarians have had a passion for animals since childhood, providing the spark in pursuing the career. Whilst a love for animals is important, a great mind and a keen interest in science is also required for this challenging job.

Most people think veterinarians only work in private clinical practices and treat illnesses or injuries of pets or other animals. Though this is primarily true there are also specialised areas one can work in. Examples can include equine, farming, education (ie university lecturer) food safety and inspection, pharmaceutical, public health, government research, agriculture or other veterinary based services.

Within the veterinary practice environment, excellent communication skills are a huge part of the job. Being able to build trusting relationships with the owners of the animals is of paramount importance to a successful and sustainable career. Communication skills might not be something that comes naturally to everyone – but these can be developed and refined over time. A veterinarian must learn to conduct insightful interviews with pet owners, observe and read animal body language and use strong deductive reasoning and apply the rational application of tests to evaluate the best course of action for a pet’s health.

Veterinarians are ‘jacks-of-all-trades’ in investigating illness or treating an injury, especially as their patients cannot verbalise their condition. This contrasts greatly with human medicine, where human doctors can gain insight from the patients themselves about where it hurts, or how they are feeling.
Veterinarians treat many different species, with different anatomies, digestive and reproductive systems and species-specific issues. In human medicine, functions such as surgery or anaesthesia must be referred to specialist doctors, whereas veterinarians perform a multitude of tasks – often with no waiting times, in the same hospital.

Depending on the type and location of a veterinary practice, the work hours as a veterinarian can be gruelling. It is not uncommon for a vet practice to maintain standard operating hours from 9am to 6pm during the weekdays, as well as be on-call for emergencies after hours and on the weekends. This is amplified if there are fewer vets serving a location. For this reason, the work-life balance of a veterinarian is highly variable depending on scheduling and demand for their services.

Pros of Being a Veterinarian

  • Versatile degree with different industry applications, daily responsibilities, and mobility.
  • Possibility of owning your own practice.
  • Possibility of becoming a specialist in one particular area (surgery, medicine, oncology) etc.
  • In animal practice, you can be an anaesthetist, surgeon, or obstetrician all at once, depending on what the day brings you.
  • You’ll be working with your passion everyday – animals!
  • It is rewarding and fulfilling to diagnose, treat, and make animals feel better.
  • Providing education to pet owners, ensuring they get to enjoy as much time with their ‘besties’ as possible!

 Cons of Being a Veterinarian

  • **Potential burnout and compassion fatigue
  • Long hours in the practice and on-call during weekends and evenings
  • Work-life balance struggles
  • Income – the average salary for a veterinarian in Australia is $62,000 (1-4yrs experience), $75,000 (5 – 9yrs experience), $80,000 (10 – 18yrs experience) per year.
  • Being a veterinarian can be dangerous! Animals may protest and you might get bitten, scratched, or kicked.
  • You might end up with a menagerie of ‘broken’ pets at your place!

**Love Your Pet, Love Your Vet!
Veterinarians can suffer from compassion fatigue. Generally described as the gradual lessening of compassion over time, people experiencing compassion fatigue can become emotionally drained or be unable to recover from the slightest events – or feel numb about their patients and life outside of work. Recent research suggests that veterinarians in practice are four times more likely than the general population, and twice as likely than other medical professionals, to commit suicide.

Being a vet isn’t easy – but it is fulfilling.

It is an emotional, humbling, challenging profession – and you won’t be rich.  But, you will belong to a group of highly trained professionals that have the ability to make a real difference in the lives of animals and people.

And that’s pretty cool!

If you find a lump on your pet, don’t panic!

It is always best to have a feel, or visually inspect it to confirm that it is not confused with matted fur, debris, or something else (like a paralysis tick!)

If you can confirm that what you have found is, indeed a lump of some sort, you should always have it checked by a veterinarian. Whilst some of the lumps we analyse are harmless, others can be very dangerous if left untreated.

The earlier a lump or bump is diagnosed, the more treatment options your pet will have – and the more likely successful the treatment plan will be.

Testing a lump to see what type it is can be as simple as performing a test called a ‘fine needle aspirate’. Your veterinarian will put a small needle into the centre of the lump, draw out some cells, and then deposit these cells onto a microscope slide. Next, the slide is prepared with special dyes, and is then viewed under a microscope to examine the specific cells that have been collected.

Once the lump has been analysed, it will fit into one of two categories:

Benign – Benign lumps may grow bigger but do not spread elsewhere. Some growths can cause problems if they continue to grow (such as restricting movement or breathing) due to their size.

Malignant – Malignant lumps can be aggressive and spread to other areas within the body (most commonly, to the major organs). Malignant growths must be removed before they spread elsewhere.

What treatment is required?

In most cases, the treatment required for most growths is to remove them and have them thoroughly analysed at a laboratory to confirm the exact diagnosis, and to determine whether the lump has been removed in its entirety.

However, if the cancer is malignant, your vet may want to make sure that there is no sign of it spreading elsewhere (prior to performing surgery) and to do this, blood tests,  x-rays or an ultrasound examination may be required.

Does your pet need to have an anaesthetic to have a lump removed?

In human medicine, skin lumps are often removed by a doctor using local anaesthetic. In veterinary medicine this can be very tricky, as your pet must lie very still during the procedure. So, to make sure that the entire lump is removed and for the safety of all involved, an anaesthetic is usually required.

Your pet has had a lump for a long time (even years!) should you be concerned?

All lumps should be monitored. Feel the lump and take notice its size every few weeks. If the lump changes in any way, is sore to touch, becomes ‘crusty’ or discharges fluid, you should make an appointment to see your veterinarian immediately.

The final word…

A watchful eye is rewarded and noticing changes in your pet’s health can lead to early diagnosis and successful treatment outcomes.

Our senior pet month consultation special includes the cytological examination (fine needle aspirate tests) of up to two lumps or bumps as well as a comprehensive check up and blood and urine testing – all for $180!

Book your senior sweetheart in for a check now and save $$$

Offer ends July 31st!

BOOK NOW!

When our pets begins to slow down, stiffen up, or cannot hear or see us as they used to, they need our help and understanding.

Pets advance in age much faster than people do, and two main types of changes occur: Physical Changes such as hearing loss, changes in vision or reduced activity. These changes are normal and cannot usually be prevented and Pathological Changes such as heart disease, kidney disease, cognitive (brain) disease, arthritis or dental disease. These changes are, to some extent, preventable – or can at least be successfully managed.

Often, these physical and pathological changes are considered by owners to be just part of normal ageing and they presume that nothing can be done. Hence, it does not prompt a visit to the veterinarian and the owners continue to live (and sometimes struggle) with their pet until they can no longer tolerate the advancing issues.

Maintaining a healthy approach

The healthcare your pet receives throughout their lifetime can help minimise and prevent disease as they age. This includes preventative healthcare (such as vaccinations, and parasite control), exercise, dental care (including regular checks and prophylactic cleaning treatments), eating a balanced diet (nutritional requirements will change as our pets age) and top-to-tail regular physical veterinary examinations.

How do I give my pet the best ‘senior life’ possible?

The answer is early diagnosis and treatment, which can be achieved by visiting the vet for twice yearly check-ups (especially for pets over the age of 7 years).

Dogs and cats age much faster than we do – and as a result, health problems progress much more rapidly. A trip to the vet once a year is much like us visiting our doctor every 5-7 years! Addressing ailments as they arise will almost certainly keep your pet with you for longer.

Common problems areas for your ageing pet:

Observe your pet for the early signs of ageing and age-related diseases including:

  • Change in appetite
  • Weight loss or weight gain
  • Loss of housetraining
  • Difficulty rising, walking or climbing stairs
  • Confusion, disorientation or unusual behaviour changes (such as vocalisation or increased anxiety)
  • A persistent cough
  • The appearance of lumps or bumps
  • Bad breath, plaque, or bleeding gums
  • Diarrhoea, constipation or vomiting
  • Change in sleep patterns (sleeping more, or waking up during the night)
  • Excessive drinking and/or urination
  • Restlessness

Our senior pet month consultation special includes a comprehensive checkup, cytological testing of up to two lumps or bumps – or one arthritis injection, and full blood and urine testing!

Book your senior sweetheart in for a check now and save $140!  

Offer ends July 31st!

BOOK NOW

How did your dog-training career begin?

‘I started working at Greater Springfield Veterinary in February 2010 as a receptionist and retail assistant. I had high hopes to go to university to study Veterinary Science.  I became increasingly interested in canine behaviour, and under the guidance of a certified nurse and trainer already working at the practice, began my journey when the classes became too busy for one person to handle!

Training was something that came very naturally to me as I have always had the ability to engage and communicate well with clients and these skills are paramount in gaining the best results from the families I work with.’

Do you have a behavioural key area of interest?

‘Yes! Good socialisation! I love helping owners achieve calm and relaxed dogs – what a lot of people do not realise is that ‘socialisation’ doesn’t just apply to how well your dog interacts with other dogs. The true meaning of the word relates to how relaxed your dog is when in a variety of situations. It is about becoming acclimated to all types of sights, sounds, and smells in a positive manner and ultimately, ensures a well-mannered, happy companion! 

I also love helping to reinforce the beautiful bonds between owners and dogs.  Providing education to owners about how dogs learn ultimately improves the relationship and stops frustrations on both sides from occurring.’

What is your favourite part of the job?

‘I love seeing the ‘brain light bulb’ go off in both owners and their dogs! A true highlight is seeing the joy in the faces of my clients when their pup finally begins to understand what it is being asked to do – and when these behaviours are repeated, resulting in big wins for all.’

 Do you have a dog of your own? 

I sure do! I have a lovely 6-year-old British Bulldog named ‘Bulldozer’ (or ‘Dozer’ for short).
‘Dozer is the offspring of my family’s beloved (and dearly missed) Bulldog – ‘Stella’. Dozer got his name because he used to ‘bulldoze’ his litter mates off his mothers teats at feeding time!

‘Dozer’ is not only a calm and obedient dog – he can also do some pretty neat tricks! He can spin, play dead and resuscitate, high 10, roll over, and even ride a skateboard!  He only ever attended puppy preschool but, it goes to show, the amount of work that a family puts in at home is vital to a successful training outcome. The methods that I teach in my puppy classes provide the groundwork for nearly every trick or command you could ever want to teach your pooch!

The thing I appreciate most about ‘Dozer’ is that I can have him off leash in any situation, and he consistently ‘checks in’ with me – no matter what. He is always looking for his next ‘cue’.

Dozer and I share a special bond – I honestly don’t know if I will ever experience this again with another dog.’

What is your training/qualification/level of experience?

‘I have been fortunate to have been taught by two amazing Delta Accredited dog trainers at Greater Springfield Veterinary. The Delta Institute use exclusively evidence based, least-harm, positive training methods, drawn only from validated research in the fields of behaviour, learning theory and welfare.

I am currently working towards completing my recognised Delta qualification and look forward to being fully accredited soon.’

What are the benefits of puppy school?

The benefits are endless! But the main points are:

  • To assist owners in successfully raising a focused and relaxed pup.
  • To increase social skills and learn how to behave appropriately with other people and dogs in unfamiliar environments.
  • To teach useful commands & fun tricks.
  • Owner education – understand how dogs think, learn, communicate and what requirements are essential to provide so your pup can live an enriched and happy life.
  • To ultimately to build the bond between owner and dog.

Storm currently runs classes for pups aged between 8 – 15 weeks of age at Greater Springfield Veterinary on Saturdays.

Enquire now!

As a veterinary nurse working in the industry for over 20 years, my friends and family have begrudgingly understood my absence from or tardiness to many events.

I love my job, but the crushing reality is that sometimes, people in the veterinary industry are the last line of defence for a desperate client in need, all be it at the most inopportune times.

Recently, I was late meeting my friends for dinner. An emergency came into work, ten minutes before my shift finishing time. After making my apologies and scoffing down the first mouthful of food I had eaten in hours, I explained why I was running behind to my comrades at the table.

A dog had been hit by a car and required urgent treatment. He was not in a good way. The entire veterinary team rallied around him. My friends’ eyes widened when I refused a hearty glass of wine – instead, opting for water knowing I would have to return to the practice later that that evening to check on my patient.

When I listed ‘Frankie’s ‘ injuries (including a broken leg, fractured ribs, multiple contusions and punctured lungs) my friend’s new boyfriend asked ‘Why didn’t you just put the dog to sleep? It’s going to cost so much, and it sounds so serious – he’s just a dog?’

It’s only ever just a dog, a cat, a guinea pig, a budgie. This is a phrase veterinary staff hear regularly. And it takes a toll. We do this job because we love it. We feel a desire to help. We forgo time with friends and family, turn up to events half bedraggled and need adequate downtime to cope with the stress of working long hours and being strong for others in emotional situations.

What my friend’s new boyfriend didn’t understand was that my emergency patient, ‘Buddy’, was a companion therapy animal to an autistic child. When ‘Buddy’ came along, his owner was able to cope better with his stress. The complete meltdowns subsided, his speech improved, and he was a happier boy.

It’s just a dog? Perhaps not.

I see the joy on the faces of new puppy owners and the proud moments when a sick pet has been sent home – well again, to the family who adores him.

Simply, pets make life better.

Rachel’s darkness was lifted when ‘Sandy’, the Maltese Terrier came into her life. Suddenly, Rachel had a spring in her step and something to get out of bed for in the mornings.

Teddy Bear, the PTSD therapy dog.

‘Teddy Bear’ the German Shepherd is a support dog for Ben who serves in the military and who suffers from PTSD. ‘Teddy’ has played an integral role in assisting Ben to move forward with his therapy.

Jess underwent chemotherapy when she was 17, and subsequently, became infertile. ‘Poppy’ the Chihuahua is the only ‘child’ she will ever have.

Ruth gifted her daughter Lara a Miniature Poodle named ‘Romeo’ for her 8th birthday. After losing her mother to a battle with breast cancer, ‘Romeo’ is now the link to a woman that Lara loved so dearly.

 

Matt and ‘Tank’ the Staffordshire Terrier grew up together; both are now 15 and ‘Tank’ is in kidney failure. Matt looks at ‘Tank’ like a sister, not a ‘just a dog’.

For 67-year-old Chris, ‘Rosie’ the Retriever, a seeing-eye dog is his lifeline – a chance at independence.

What some do not understand is that our ‘just dogs’ are our best friends, our trusted companions, our saviours. They are a means of independence, a light in a dark world. They are family.

And as long as there are people who need me to love their pets as much as they do in their time of need, I am happy enough to skip the parties and the wine.

The ideal time to start a dental regimen is BEFORE you see signs of dental disease.

For adult cats and dogs with existing dental disease, a dental treatment involving a ‘scale and polish’ procedure under general anaesthetic is often necessary to get their mouth back into top condition. This will allow you to start your new routine with a ‘clean slate’, and which will hopefully prevent, or slow down the development of disease, and potentially reduce the number of veterinary dental treatments required in your pet’s lifetime.

There are many different methods of home-based teeth cleaning available including:

TOOTH BRUSHING 
Daily brushing is THE best way to keep your pet’s mouth clean and healthy. Specially designed kinds of toothpaste (usually chicken or beef flavoured!) and a pet-friendly toothbrush can help in to removing plaque and preventing tartar build up. It is important to note that cats and dogs cannot use fluoride (human) toothpaste and a specific pet dental paste needs to be selected.
Most pets need to be trained to tolerate having their teeth brushed, but gradually developing a system is important. Cats and small dogs may feel more comfortable if they can sit on their owners’ lap while having their teeth brushed.

  • Begin slowly – initial sessions should be brief, perhaps only a minute or two, and well rewarded.
  • Get your pet used to the toothbrush by dipping it in tuna juice, chicken or beef stock – Yum!
  • Next try offering the toothbrush with the paste, but without brushing. Allow your pet to taste the toothpaste (most pets really like it because it is flavoured).
  • When your pet is comfortable with the toothbrush, try brushing one or two strokes on a few teeth. Slowly increase the amount of brushing as your pet becomes more comfortable.
  • Start at the front of the mouth. Pets are often more accepting of this.
  • The toothbrush bristles should be placed at the gum margin where the teeth and gums meet at a 45-degree angle. The movement should be in an oval pattern. Be sure to gently force the bristle ends into the area around the base of the tooth as well as into the space between the teeth.

DIET
Feeding your pet dry food rather than soft, mushy food may help to remove some of the soft plaque film from the teeth before it becomes calcified tartar.
Hills Science Diet T/d is a premium diet designed to help prevent tartar and plaque forming on the teeth. This food is ideal to start just after your pet’s teeth have been cleaned and it is available for both dogs and cats. The individual kibble pieces are larger than an averagely sized biscuit, which ensures the whole of the tooth is cleaned while the food is being crunched.

WATER ADDITIVES
These products work in two different ways: by decreasing overall bacterial loads in your pet’s mouth (thus aiding with smelly breath) and also softening plaque on the tooth surface. When the plaque is softer, it can be brushed away more easily.
Healthy Mouth Oral Solution  has been clinically proven to be safe for all life stages and has the Veterinary Oral Health Council seal of approval. Add the correct measured amount of healthy mouth liquid to your pet’s drinking water.

DENTAL CHEWS
Greenies are made from vegetable matter, this product encourages your pets to chew, which helps to rub plaque off the tooth’s surface, and assists in spreading protective saliva around the teeth. Greenies are great for pets with digestive sensitivities and are available in many sizes.
Oravet chews contain a special ingredient called ‘Delmopinol’. Delmopinol works to form a preventive barrier that blocks bacteria, and the future formation of plaque and calculus (tartar) that builds up over time. Oravet chews are the first and only dental hygiene product for dogs that contain this special ingredient.
Raw bones – Feeding fresh raw bones and other animal products can greatly aid the hygiene of the mouth, however not every dog or cat can eat them due to individual medical conditions or gut sensitivities that prohibit their use within the diet.

  • Un-cut bones are best to reduce the risk of dental fractures, and the size must be larger than your pet’s head to avoid them swallowing large portions.
  • Cooked bones should NEVER be fed, as they are more likely to splinter and cause problems in the mouth, throat or gastrointestinal tract.
  • Cut bones are more likely to fracture the teeth, and allow access to the fatty bone marrow that can cause tummy upsets and pancreatitis.
  • Long bones such as a cow femur or a lamb femur bone are ideal for dogs.
  • The part we want your pet to chew is the cartilage on the ends of the bone, NOT the bone itself. Once the cartilage has gone, it’s time for a new bone! Some pets can become severely constipated if they chew up and swallow lots of bones on a regular basis.
  • Raw bones should be removed after an hour, as nasty bacteria can grow on the surface – and could cause serious harm if ingested. Once a bone has dried out, it can also become sharp to chew, and potentially cause damage to the teeth or the gastrointestinal tract.
  • Always supervise your pet, especially the first time it has a different type of bone.

Using at least one oral health product each day can significantly reduce the amount of plaque and tartar build-up on your pet’s teeth, ensuring they stay happy and healthy!

Remember, it doesn’t have to be the same thing each day – It just has to be SOMETHING each day!